Friday 18 May 2012

WEEK 9 & BOLOGNA

Monday night after returning from Venice, we couldn't be bothered cooking, so we went out for a quick aperitivo.  We were hoping to sit on their rooftop terrace to enjoy the sunset, but unfortunately it doesn't open until the end of June.  As we walked across Ponte Alle Grazie, we stopped to watch the sunset peer through the eyes of the Ponte Vecchio.


Venice had been an expensive weekend, so on Tuesday we went to the supermarket and bought up big for a few home cooked meals.  That night we had steak and veg and a great gravy that Anna was able to whip up.

The next day after another great lunch at Pino's, we travelled an hour by train to the hilltop town of Montecatini Terme to watch the end of the 11th stage of the Giro d'Italia.


The place was buzzing and full of people, but we managed to secure a decent spot about 250m out from the finish line.




After a lot of anticipation, the riders finally came through and it was all over in about a minute!  Amazing to see these athletes still going so fast after 255km, let alone the previous 10 stages.


We were really keen to try and get a shot of Cadel Evans coming through, but the best we could come up with was his team car haha.



Italian Roberto Ferrari was the winner of stage 11, much to the delight of the home crowd.


Back home for a another home cooked meal and then out for an eying stroll andy coffee before hitting the sack at a reasonable hour.

The sun decided to come out on Thursday so I found the nearest place that seemed viable to sunbake, got comfortable and got the kit off.  After about 3 hours, Anna joined me, however the sun was really really hot and with no water in sight, Anna only lasted 30 minutes before going home for an unusual (haha) afternoon nap.

That night we met up with friends of Anna's Aunty Kaye (Anne and Grahame and their friends Anne and Allan).  We took them to a cocktail bar on the rooftop of Hotel Continentale which we had been wanting to try for a while.  It was pretty swanky, but really nice, with great views and the best mojito's in town!
We also took them to our favourite restaurant, Borgo Antico, which they were all very pleased with.


The next day after Anna finished school, we set off for Bologna.  As it isn't that far from Florence, we chose the cheapo train that stops along the way which lengthened the trip from 30 mins to 100 mins, but these are the things you have to do when on a budget!

Our B&B was right in the heart of town, near the main street Via Independenza and main square Piazza Maggiore.  We settled in and then set off for a walk around town.


That night we went out for aperitivo and cocktails at a nearby bar, but we weren't satisfied with the food war had, so we went to Trattoria Mariposa, a local favourite.  It was a traditional family run restaurant and as we were in Bologna, we had to have the tortellini with bolognese sauce (Bologna is where the sauce originated from and was first published in a cookbook in 1891).

The next morning I was up early to listen to the Dees get smashed again and then we were treated to a fantastic breakfast by host Cristina.  We were then out the door and headed straight for the Basilica di Santo Stefano, known as the 'sette chiese' (seven churches).  It was an amazing complex of different churches all joined together by portico's and courtyards.




We then continued to walk around the streets, without any real destination in mind. One of the things that is most evident in Bologna is the amount of portico's that line almost every street, which was great on Sunday when it started raining!


Bologna is home to the oldest university in the world, opening its doors (or whatever they had back then) in 1088. Just over 100,000 students in 23 different schools are currently undertaking studies there

university district
university rooms being advertised
Another thing that is evident in Bologna is the amount of shops selling homemade bolognese sauce and tortellini.  Of course we tried some, however we both noted how little tomato was included in the sauce and how much we preferred Julie's and Bud's!!


they even have bolognese flavoured ice-cream!!
By this stage it was the early arvo and we were still hungry, so we found a great little French cafe and tucked in to some massive salads and then set off for the two towers that can be seen from many parts of the city.


Both towers are leaning, however the smaller "Torre Garisenda" leans much more than the taller one.  Therefore, we chose to walk up the taller tower (98m tall and 448 steps) called "Torre Asinelli' which was built between 1109 and 1119.
Between the 12th and 13th centuries, Bologna had almost 180 towers, built by rich families not only to show off their wealth, but also for offensive and defensive purposes.



It was a bloody tough walk up, especially as the stairs were so narrow (hence there were no fat Americans around!), but it was a great view from the top.



a poster showing the major towers in Italy, Torre Asinelli in Bologna being the 2nd tallest
We spent the afternoon shopping and watching the 'Mile Miglia Storica' a parade of pre-1957 cars that lasts several days and covers 1000 miles starting in Southern Italy and ending in Milan.



That night we again went out for aperitivo and cocktails and then to Osteria de Poeti for our main meal.

passionfruit mojito - yumm

The restaurant was in an underground cellar.  The food was amazing, if only the bloke on the piano singing Elton John classics was better!


The next morning we were awoken around 4am by the whole room shaking and our beds jumping.  It felt like we were in an aeroplane that was experiencing turbulence.  Instead, it was an earthquake!
It lasted about a minute and then back to silence. We both took turns going to the toilet because we shat ourselves haha, not really, but it was a little scary, especially when a few aftershocks occurred an hour later!
I got straight onto the internet and read that a magnitude 5.9 quake hit the town of Modena about 15km north of Bologna - Thank god it didn't happen when we were climbing up the tower the day before!
Over the next few days, we learnt that 7 people died, many cultural buildings collapsed and more than 15,800 tones of parmesan cheese was ruined.



We went back to sleep and when we arrived at breakfast, everyone else in the B&B was talking about it. Although two Sth. American blokes had had a big night and slept right through it haha, I can understand that.

There wasn't a whole lot more of Bologna to see, apart from a few monuments and the huge Basilica di San Petronio, the worlds 5th largest Basilica.

the best fountain in Italy!

The Basilica included a frescoe by Giovanni da Modena called "I'Inferno" which was pretty impressive.


We also visited the Museo Della Storia di Bologna at Palazzo Pepoli which traced the history of Bologna from the Etruscan era to present.  It included many old paintings of what the city looked like back in the day which I find great to look at.


After that we decided to call it quits and head back to Florence.  We had a great weekend, although won't be rushing back to Bologna in any hurry.

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